The Red Screes Hike | Lake District Hiking
Waking Up at Dawn on Kirkstone Pass
For me, the hike started before the sun even rose — I was lucky enough to be parked up overnight in the van at the Kirkstone Pass Inn car park. I woke to a wonderufl golden light creeping over the mountains, the first sighting of sunshine this year which was starting to bring the promise of summer. With a strong coffee and blue skies overhead, I set off straight from the car park, following the steep path that climbs directly to the summit of Red Screes.
The Climb
The ascent from Kirkstone Pass is fairly steep — you gain elevation fast, but the rewarding views unfold with every step. Once you’re short of breath, the path gets a bit rocky underfoot, so I wouldn’t reccomend this hike to a complete beginner. However, the higher I climbed, the more the Lake District revealed itself — Windermere to one side, the rolling fells stretching into the distance and it definitely was worth the climb.
Halfway up, I stopped to photograph the ridgeline behind me — the kind of scene that makes you feel tiny in the best way. You can see the road aptly named “The Sturggle” stretching and winding down through the valley off to Ambleside.
From Red Screes to Fairfield
At the summit of Red Screes, I paused at the trig point, you are now above the RAF flight training path, if you manage to find yourself here in good weather, then that’s definitely a sight to see. You can see all the way over to Ullswater from here and some people opt to head back down towards Kirkstone Pass. If you’re up for a longer walk then you can carry on — following the ridgeline east toward Fairfield. This route stays high, with wide open views and rolling peaks that feel like they go on forever.
The trail was quiet, just the occasional hiker and endless blue overhead. I took my time, stopping often to photograph the changing angles of the fells and the play of light on the path.
Descent into Ambleside and the Walk Back
Eventually, I made it over the top of Fairfield Peak and started the descent down into Ambleside, winding over rocky paths with views of different lakes including Grisedale Tarn and Grasmere. Eventually I made it down past some waterfalls and into Ambleside, where you can stop for lunch and a little look in the quaint shops. I grabbed a wonderful Pain au Chocolat from Coffee + Pastries before I began the last leg of the loop — heading back up The Struggle, the winding road that climbs back toward Kirkstone Pass.
Notes for Fellow Hikers
Route: Kirkstone Pass → Red Screes → Fairfield → Ambleside → The Struggle → Kirkstone Pass
Distance: ~13 km circular
Elevation Gain: Around 750m
Overnight: Slept in the van at the Kirkstone Pass Inn car park (quiet, peaceful, stunning sunrise!) But you could start this from Ambleside instead.
Gear: Good boots, layers, plenty of water, snacks, and a camera
Planning a hiking trip in the Lake District? This route is a gem — especially on a sunny day. Park up at Kirkstone Pass, follow your feet, and let the fells do the rest. I enjoyed it so much I did it twice!
